Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Something A Little More My Speed

We're now at the Eldorado Hotel off Place de Clichy in the northwest part of town, just down the hill from scenic Montmartre and west of seedy Pigalle. Oddly, being that close to tourist hell, it's shockingly local around here - and a far cry from anything around the 14e and the Marriott. Thank god.


Despite the ginormous heap of bread for breakfast, we're hungry and there's the ubiquitous outlet of fast French cuisine nearby: Quick. Ok, there's nothing French about Quick except for the fries. Which are damn good, believe it or not. The burger I could take or leave. But you've got to love the Franglais name: Suprême Cheese.

Le Petit Dejeuner

"Petit dejeuner," the French word for breakfast, means "little lunch." There is absolutely nothing little about this serving of bread.

24 Hours? Hah!

When you pass by all these brasseries in the neighborhood that promise 24-hour service, don't assume that you can take a long nap after a day out and grab a bite late night. Because while they might serve you beer or wine or coffee at 11:30, good luck getting a meal.

Even our hotel restaurant, the swanky but tourist-packed R'Yves, stays open past midnight, but stops serving... oh, whenever they feel like, it seems. The guy there told us we can order from room service all night, though.

We took a look at the menu - apparently, only items with an asterisk are available after 11:00 pm. Things like Caesar salad, tomato-mozzarella panini, soup du jour, and tarte du jour. I ordered all of them.

Surprisingly, the portions were huge. And while this is a Yank-laden Marriott, the kitchen is still in Paris, so every morsel of cheese, every mouthful of bread, and every hot, warming spoonful of French onion soup was top notch. And surprisingly, it came out to be cheaper than going out for a mediocre meal at one of the supposed all-night joints nearby.

Anyway, that's the last of our touristic transgressions. For on the morrow, we move to a smaller, more French, boutique hotel in the Batignolles neighborhood. Bonne nuit.